A LONG WAY FROM MANY PLACES
Apprehension and Disliking in Las Vegas
(Part II)
A kid wearing a St. Louis Blues home
sweater asked me for a light. He said he’d lost his lighter. I handed him my
Montreal Canadiens Bic and said, “If you lose this, I’ll kill you.” Ann and I
were in The Park, the immense pedestrian plaza in front of the T-Mobile Arena
shoehorned between New York New York and another MGM branded property different
from the green Grand across the boulevard. We were sipping tins of Stella Artois,
stupefied by the pre-game festivities of warm weather hockey. We moved like
crabs through the throng, sideways past the liquor kiosks, flowing with the
current of the pounding techno. Gazing upward I noted the masked, tennis
ball-green security forces looking down on the crowd from every storey of the
Toshiba Plaza. My emotions were mixed, I wasn’t sure if I was comforted or
discomforted.
The sports story of the last decade is the
Vegas Golden Knights. The expansion club was great from their first puck drop.
But, man, their marketers were all-stars. Knights gear is for sale everywhere
and seemingly every business here trumpets some official affiliation with the
team. This is the way hockey permeates Montreal. Looking at all the sweaters in
The Park, boring colours and a decent crest, I understood that there’s a fan base
in Las Vegas which in turn led me to an absurdly obvious though shocking
conclusion: people actually live and work here. If the transient, carpetbagging
football Raiders get it right, their confrere Chargers in Los Angles proof that
it’s not a given, there’s more golden nuggets to be mined in the desert.
When I eventually reached the wicket
window, there were just 18 seats available in the rink. For $140 each plus
service charges and taxes - about another $75; Ann and I would not even be able
to sit together. The ticket agent was friendly and helpful, good at her job. My
mind spun: 7, BAR, lemons. The game meant nothing to us although I suppose I
would’ve paid that much to watch the Canadiens lose. I politely demurred.
Because I have effectively mismanaged my
personal life since the last notes of ‘Stairway to Heaven’ faded at one of my Secondary
Three high school dances, friends and family were concerned that Ann and I
might exchange marital vows in Vegas, stood before some plump rhinestone Elvis Baptist
preacher. There has been more than enough grief in our lives. We opted instead
for Love, the Cirque du Soleil’s
Beatles tribute at The Mirage, a few monorail stops away from MGM Grand. I
never did buy the Apple soundtrack because I wanted to hear and experience the
deconstruction of their songs within the context of performance. My father took
me to see a circus once, around the time I was preparing for my First Communion,
so 1967. Some snotty little puke about my age in the row behind us vomited on
him. We left early, missed the finale.
There has been a trend in theatre recently
to foist jukebox musicals on patrons, hit songs strung together by a tenuous
and shaky narrative thread. Beautiful
and Million Dollar Quartet are not
documentaries; facts don’t matter so much as the attempt to somehow lift the
curtain on the miracle of art, humanity’s finest creation. The Cirque adds
miming acrobats and a highwire. Love’s
stage is populated by athletic avatars of Beatles characters, Eleanor Rigby,
Mr. Kite and Lucy. The Fool on the Hill, maybe an Eggman and a Walrus,
everybody on the cover of Sgt. Pepper’s,
I couldn’t be certain. Imagine the era of post-war, pyrrhic Britain to John’s
murder condensed into a Yellow Submarine
cartoon with live actors zipping up and down through strobes and fog and all
around Blue Meanies, glass onions and mojo filters interspersed with short,
deferential tangents vectoring on George and Ringo, one song each – just like
the albums. I’ve taken magic mushrooms and God knows what else in my time but
I’ve never hallucinated anything quite like Love.
Peter Frampton and the Bee Gees learned harsh lessons messing with the Beatles’
music and legacy. This audacious, carefully choreographed spectacle is so over
the big top, enough as to be deranged and yet not without flaws: Ann noted the
flaccid nets and unused trampolines during 'Revolution,' many cues were missed.
But the Cirque organization is everywhere
with different shows in every resort, as ubiquitous as the colourfully explicit
escort calling cards that paper the city. Las Vegas is the only holiday
destination you’re tempted to escape from even while you’re there. It’s all too
much. I was reminded of the downtown Edmonton apartment I rented 30 years ago following
my first divorce. Even though I lived by myself I hated going home. I tried to
explain my existential crisis to my older brother. He said, “You get home after
work, unlock the door and it’s just you, and you can’t stand your company.” I
said, “Yeah, no, maybe.”
While the slots are modern machines in the
“fabulous” Flamingo, it’s the only joint on The Strip that still possesses a
whiff of Rat Pack pomade. Ain’t that a kick in the head? There’s a pit bar in
the middle of the casino. There are paper matchbooks available. But to really
get away from it all without flying home, we flagged a cab downtown to Fremont
Street. Our taxi sped by peeler bars, liquor stores, drug stores (not
Walgreen’s or CVS) and auto body chop shops. After I paid our driver I slid my
wallet into a front pocket of my jeans.
The branded Fremont Street Experience
unfolds beneath a programmable electric sky, an LED canopy that extends for
three city blocks. On the mall under the trance inducing lights are live bands
and deejays, fishnet stockinged dancers, open air bars, kiosks selling junk and
palm readings, street performers and street people. It’s a grittier scene than
the vaguely Disneyfied Strip, though paradoxically as plastic as the discarded
beer cups, yet its scale is human. A visit forces you to ponder the human
condition such as it is in the wake of a few thousand years of civilization. My
God, what some people (don’t) wear. Ann and I attended on a Friday night and
returned again on a Sunday morning to survey the wreckage in the harsh desert
glare of hangover day.
I heard a guitarist grinding out a Keith
Richards riff through the open windows of an Irish pub called Mickie Finnz. Ann
and I went in for the happy hour specials. Immediately inside the entry we were
greeted by a large aquarium populated with a few undersized, clinically
depressed lobsters. YOU CATCH IT AND WE COOK IT. Christ. I judge the
cleanliness of an eatery’s kitchen by the state of its men’s room. I would not
chew my fingernail in Mickie Finnz.
Ann was equally intrigued and appalled by
the neon wretched excess across Fremont. The Heart Attack Grill offered free
food to patrons weighing over 350 pounds. There was a scale on the street. A
drinker beside us told Ann that he dropped his wife there about once a month
and waited her out in Mickie Finnz. He said, “If you can’t finish your meal
they spank you.” I had so many inappropriate questions with which to pepper
him. For maybe the second time in my life I kept silent, bit my tongue - not on
the menu at Mickie Finnz but at least I knew where it had been.
The Mob Museum is nearby on Stewart Avenue.
Despite its silly name it’s no Ripley’s on Times Square. History, while always
fascinating, is often ugly. I believe it should be documented and acknowledged
rather than erased. I was reminded of a museum I visited in Bristol, England
which was surprisingly forthright about that port city’s role in the slave
trade and how its abolition crunched the local economy. The universal hallmark
of progress is disruption. There is a mild MAGA odour wafting through The Mob
Museum as the panels of text herald the noble forces of American law rising up
against the Italian, Irish and Jewish immigrants who imported their evil ways to
orchestrate a New World gangland. It’s not the facts so much as how they’re
presented.
When I was a good Catholic boy many of my
friends had little Red Cross badges sewn onto their bathing suits. I badgered
my parents for swimming lessons because I wanted a bathing suit badge too. One
of the tests was treading water for 30 seconds in the deep end of the pool,
under the low and high diving boards. I was terrified. I didn’t smoke back then
and so I managed not to drown for 29 seconds. I was passed anyway, sort of like
that mercy 51 grade in Secondary Three chemistry. Maybe that’s the story of my
life and career, barely adequate.
When Ann and I felt we were flailing and
floundering, asea in the grotesque, we repaired to the Triple 7 sports bar in
Main Street Station close by the western top of Fremont, near the Plaza and the
Golden Nugget. The micro-brewed beer is as good and as reasonably priced as the
food and the casino’s men’s room is immaculate. You can piss against a segment
of the Berlin Wall (the reassembled St. Valentine’s Day Massacre wall is in The
Mob Museum). We took the same stools every visit, down at the end of the long
wooden bar. I don’t pay attention to American football any longer but, boy,
watching a playoff game with people who have stakes riding on multiple outcomes,
over-under, spread, winner, is some kind of secondary rush. Should we ever
return to Las Vegas, this is where I’ll establish our unofficial headquarters.
Provided you get a good night’s sleep,
leaving Las Vegas is easy. We were mortified when a black stretch limo turned
up at the MGM Grand to take us to McCarran, the primary point of our journey
back to reality. We don’t habitually move in such ostentatious circles. I’d
booked sedans for us. I guessed this embarrassing vehicle was a make-good for
the foul-up upon our arrival. I assumed the rims of our eyes were as red and
rusty as the surrounding shimmering distant desert peaks; razor wire and palm
trees with giant pineapple-like tumours high up their trunks under their dusty fronds
animated in our tinted window-framed foreground. Goodbye to all this and that. An
e-mail alert: our flight was delayed which meant our connector from Vancouver
now became something of a slots SPIN button result. Ann’s weather app indicated
we’d eventually get home to Edmonton’s freezing temperature amidst a snowstorm.
There was nothing we could do except sit back and enjoy the somnambulant ride.
What else could possibly happen?
meGeoff has been your most unreliable,
unbalanced, inaccurate alternative source of travel writing since 2013. Sign up for e-mail alerts from the Crooked 9.