EAT ME
A Coke Smile and a Milk Moustache
It’s never easy to watch a good friend
slosh downhill. Always beloved and up until very recently the world’s most
valuable brand, Coca-Cola now seems dangerously doomed, destined to join Kik
and Royal Crown in the cola crypt. What a long, strange trip it’s been for the
red circle dowager queen since her 19th century pharmacy snake oil
formulation. The dear old girl has lost her way.
Coke has long thrived on the legend of
Merchandise 7X, a subset of ingredients within its fizzy, sugar-water formula.
The fluid is the pinnacle of marketing mystique, above and beyond ’11 secret
herbs and spices’ and ‘special sauce.’ As with the Beatles and the Stones, the
Canadiens and the Bruins, it’s impossible to discuss Coca-Cola without
referring to Pepsi. The cooler-coloured blue opposition has always been a canny
and a worthy, worrisome number two. Initially Pepsi offered consumers twice the
amount of cola for the same price as a bottle of Coke. Pepsi reached its Rocky apex in 1985 when it caused
Coca-Cola to betray inexplicable doubt in its flagship brand and recalibrate
its recipe. The result was disastrous and there’s a sense that the company has
been a-wobble ever since.
Diet Coke is arguably the most successful
brand extension ever. Beyond that triumph and the egg-faced, albeit welcomed,
launch of Coca-Cola Classic, there hasn’t been much to cheer about. Coke is
needlessly and manically determined to have a brand in every conceivable
beverage category. It has a roster of second rate, market-reactive energy and
sports drinks. The company had the gall to repackage municipal tap water in
plastic containers which cost more than their contents and market the ‘product’
to the people. (It’s worth noting here that the vast majority of American
states do not require a refundable deposit on non-carbonated beverage
containers. And it would be a mistake to assume that lobbyists for the status
quo are employed exclusively by the grocery industry.) A line of chilled
coffee-based beverages went over like a cup of Nescafe at a Starbucks. Vitamin
infused Diet Coke and a green tea complete with outrageous metabolic claims
induced paroxysms of laughter in Washington’s
Food and Drug Administration offices.
Coca-Cola and Pepsi (et al) are now being
made the patsies for the apparent next phase of human evolution, a sedentary
species of obese diabetics. The wolf criers may as well put Microsoft and Apple up
against the wall too. Be that as it may, Coke’s counter-strategy is the 2015
roll out of a new brand called Fairlife. Milk. But not just any milk. No,
Fairlife will be premium Frankenmilk. Nobody knows dairy like Coca-Cola. The
lactose intolerant shrug even as United States Department of Agriculture
figures show that milk and cream consumption in America has been in a steady and
steep decline since 1975. There is another counter-intuitive and alarming
aspect to Fairlife: a national brand of enhanced milk flies in the face of
consumers’ current preferences for organic or locally sourced products.
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