EAT ME
Slices of Life, Grilled
The late pop music genius Warren Zevon near
the end of his life urged viewers of ‘Late Night’ and by extension his fans to
“enjoy every sandwich.” I didn’t need to be reminded. I consider myself a
fairly well-rounded person, which means I don’t particularly excel at anything
but I do construct awesome sandwiches. And the funny thing about sandwiches is
that if someone close to you, a friend or family member, makes you one, they
taste just that much better even if the ingredients aren’t quite up to snuff to
an extended pinkie sandwich snob.
“Oh dear, a sliced gherkin instead of a
proper kosher dill for a crunchy accent? Tsk-tsk.”
My Nana Moore made other-worldly toasted
cheese sandwiches with white POM Bakery bread, butter and Kraft Deluxe genuine
(sort of) cheddar slices; I’ve never been able to replicate that taste. My
Auntie Mag, a creative director at a major ad agency during the ‘Mad Men’ era,
a painter and a part-time model insisted I eat exotic open-faced sandwiches. My
old friend Tim’s mother made the best egg salad; perhaps Tim’s mom would prefer
not to be remembered in this way but those delicious sandwiches meant their
house was always open to a confused kid from a broken home. Here at the Crooked
9 I derive delight assembling breakfast or lunch sandwiches for Ann.
Beyond the domestic kitchens, the labour of
love or affection, are the delicatessens, shops and taverns or pubs. As a
traveller a long way from many places while sometimes haunting familiar turf,
the available sandwiches have from time to time dictated the course of a day
out. As they should. If Ann and I go back to Barbados
the attraction might not be the Caribbean beach at Worthing
so much as the potato roti further up the road. We have friends and relations
in Ottawa but,
you know, Nate’s on Rideau Street
has closed its doors.
There are some great sandwiches to be had
in Edmonton.
Shawarma dressed with beet relish in the north end and worthy of a tourist
visit in February, calzones or peri-peri drenched pork chops on floury
Portuguese rolls along Alberta
Avenue, donairs and falafel on Whyte. I’ve even
had the cook at the Route 99 diner try to recreate a Montreal-style steak and
pepperoni hero. The Steak Out on Parsons
Road serves Lester’s smoked meat; the samosas at
nearby Punjabi Sweets, a former Dairy Queen outlet judging from the building’s
cookie-cutter, sun room design, are the size of baseballs but taste a whole lot
better.
I don’t know much but I know sandwiches way
beyond the Biblical sense: I eat them; I make them; I buy them. A Montreal high school chum with Edmonton connections was in town last
weekend. Tony and I were football teammates but not close. We are Facebook
friends and he has contributed a couple of pieces to meGeoff. These days, together, we are filling in a jigsaw puzzle
that’s been missing pieces for some 40 years. My friend is a tad eccentric but
I can compete and both of us still puff away on cigarettes. I was surprised to
learn that he too had spent teenage summers living with his older brother in a
downtown Edmonton
highrise. I cannot comprehend how our paths never crossed on Jasper Avenue. The provincial capital was
not a big city in those days. And so last Saturday afternoon I suggested to Ann
and Tony that the three of us cross the river and head downtown for a sandwich.
“Let’s go to Teddy’s!”
Tony couldn’t remember the last time he’d
actually been in the core. I figured he might get a kick out of the abounding
and disruptive change transforming this place: closed roads, cranes, deep holes
surrounded by hoarding, scaffolding, giant tarps snapping like locker room
towels on steel skeletons. Should all the work ever be completed, Edmonton, like our
hometown following the grandiose delirium of the Expo ’67 and the ’76 Olympics,
will be a sparkling new science fiction dream city. Also, I hadn’t eaten a
corned beef sandwich at Teddy’s in 25 years.
Teddy’s made local headlines in 2018 when
it finally reopened in the wake of a catastrophic flood and a year or so of
reclamation. The restaurant is on the west end of Jasper and often in the
shadow of St. Joseph’s
Cathedral, its massive granite neighbour. Thirty years ago I used to reside
nearby, a short-cut alley and a pedestrian crosswalk away. I lived alone in a
one-bedroom apartment and couldn’t stand the company. I had other hangouts
besides Teddy’s but sometimes I had to eat and change the backdrop wall of
booze.
Back then Teddy’s corned beef sandwiches
were stacked liked the smoked meats back home I missed so much. It was crucial to
mainline my annual sodium intake in one sitting. The potato salad was stellar
but it had better be in a gussied up deli. The interior lighting was dim,
everybody looked a little more attractive, even me; there was a lot of dark
wood, the booths, the bar. What I loved about Teddy’s then (and now) was that
there was only one. There were no spin off mall kiosks or plastic packaged,
branded sliced brisket in grocery stores.
Forgive me while I remember. Tim (not Tony)
and I walked down Simpson to Sherbrooke
Street. If I recall correctly we were still in
high school but seniors, getting on. My mother had remarried and I was now
living in downtown Montreal
proximate to the Golden Square Mile. I knew places where kids could disappear,
nooks and crannies where we couldn’t be seen or heard. Tim and I smoked some
hash on the brick plinth of Le Port-Royal, a non-descript grey tower, Ayn
Rand’s wet dream of ‘Fountainhead’ architecture and consequently an aesthetic
crime perpetuated upon all who ever had the misfortune of gazing upon it – a
lot like downtown Edmonton in retrospect. We went into a depanneur to buy some
Player’s cigarettes. One of us spotted tins of Tahiti Treat in a cooler with
sliding glass doors. Oh boy! Neither of us had enjoyed the red, fruity soda since
we’d been nippers taught by nuns.
We found a bench, lit smokes and cracked
open our cans. You know, when your mouth gets dry, you’re plenty high. We
guzzled our Tahiti Treats. Silence in the company of a good friend has never
bothered me. But this particular instance, this vacuum punctuated by many
swallows, tooth rotting, tongue smacking, Jell-O saliva, was a life lesson. Tim
coined a phrase that afternoon on the bench: “Tahiti Treat Syndrome.” There’s
no going back to whatever it was;
even if something hasn’t changed it
can never match a sepia memory.
The new Teddy’s features a discreet corner
of depravity. I’ve read that a fruit machine can be worth as much as $50,000 in
additional revenue to the establishment that rents it. I guessed there were about
a dozen video lottery terminals within staggering distance of the bar and bank
machine, but cordoned off, mind. My despair at this state of affairs was
alleviated somewhat by the glistening, sparkling men’s room; I know what really
matters to me now. There were a few day drinkers at the bar watching
television.
We selected a window table with a Jasper
view in the empty dining area. Tony ordered an omelette from the All Day
Breakfast menu. Ann chose a Reuben. I ordered a corned beef on rye, I had to.
The sandwiches’ fillings did not appear to be as generous as my memory
suggested they would be, the bread slices were thicker. Still, more often than
not Ann and I remind each other too late that we should’ve shared a meal and
eaten the plate charge, but some old habits are so hard to break. My Nana
surmised that I packed a dozen toasted cheese triangles into a hollow leg.
Auntie Mag learned that four open-face sandwiches merely equated to two proper
ones in my book. I remember going into Tim’s house: “Mom? I’ve brought two
people home for lunch today, Geoff and Moore.”
Part of the fading, renovated charm of Teddy’s
is that there’s just the one, an iota of legacy in what is still a young city.
It’s also fair to compare Teddy’s to the last inglorious days of Ben’s
Delicatessen in Montreal;
it’s not what it was: Tahiti Treat Syndrome. Maybe the fruit machines will keep
Teddy’s afloat although that might be a losing bet. Last Saturday afternoon I
was the youngest patron in a crowd thinner than Teddy’s corned beef sandwiches.
I’m 59.