EAT ME
meGeoff’s Guide to the Big Three and a Half
Fast Food Burger Joints
I know. I know. You can’t get kale or
quinoa. There’s those disgusting cyber myths about pink slime and anti-nausea
medication mixed into the cereal bulked beef patties. Every ingredient is
processed right down to the Boris Karloff Frankenstein green pickle garnish,
they must be. The burger, once out of its wrapper, box or bag, never even
remotely resembles its picture on the back-lit store menu or its portrait on
the cover of that coupon-rife unaddressed ad mailer. Overseas there may come a
soul-crushing moment that reminds you of a relationship gone sour. You will see
that North American mega-brand sign shining down on a square or roundabout
where it should never be and shake your head: I came all this way to get away
from you.
Assembly line burgers are assembly line
burgers. Nothing special. And yet, that craving hits and you know you want to.
Perhaps the trigger is partly nostalgia. As a kid a visit definitely
constituted a rare treat. As a teen the restaurants were places to hang out.
Later on, a long after dark order of half the menu was thought to be sufficient
enough to prevent bed spins. Or not.
Let’s
all go to A&W/Food’s more fun at A&W/Hop in your car/Come as you are/To
A&W! My enduring memory is sitting in the front
seat of our maroon Beaumont beside my newly divorced mother, orange plastic
trays hanging off the partially rolled down passenger windows. It is Sunday. We
are skipping our parish’s 11 o’clock Catholic mass because Mom is now
technically excommunicated. She got the bell, book and candle, and Mama Burger.
I’m munching on a Teen Burger and a Whistle Dog, chasing bites with orangeade
from a heavy glass mug. This is making the best of a bad situation.
Saturday night Ann and I had options. Take
the downtown train to hear Pepperland,
a Beatles tribute outfit at The Rose & Crown or head to the local A&W
to try the new Uncle Burger (we make our own Whistle Dogs at home). Shakespeare
dubbed music moodie food. Real food won
out. The restaurant was clean though weirdly all of the chrome stools were
upside down on the tables so the place appeared closed from the sidewalk. Bad
for business on a Saturday night. The burger was well presented in its wax
paper pocket and all of the toppings were crisp and fresh. Ann’s root beer was
served in the heavy glass mug of memory. I kept hoping the balding TV campaign
store manager would wander by to engage in some witty banter. The Root Bear
mascot’s long gone, but A&W, you’re still the best there ever was.
Years before Homeland Security was even a
gleam in George Dubya’s eye, we used to drive two hours south to the Pyramid
Mall in Plattsburgh, NY
wanting things that could not be found in Montreal,
QC or anywhere else in Canada.
Jacques, behind the wheel of his parents’ Volvo, would tell the US customs
official that it was a day trip: ‘Burger King, Budweiser and OTB (Off Track
Betting).’ Sometimes I wonder how we ever made it back home alive. Back then
drunk driving was like a sport and, anyway, a couple of Whoppers would soak up
all the booze. And they did their jobs later on in New York
City and in London on the Piccadilly Circus.
The middle-aged Burger King experience has
been nothing short of tragic. The chain’s restaurants are universally filthy.
The Whopper, their holy grail, is a slimy disk of sludge. These days they sort
of taste all right, I guess, but there are no teenaged American girls sliding
into your booth entranced by your exotic Canadian cigarette package and
impressed you’re able to speak their language good. Fortunately Ann is Canadian
so there’s no overt communication barrier. We easily agree that everything is
dreadful.
Harvey’s makes a hamburger a
beautiful thing. But I’ve always preferred hot
dogs; welcome our lone Canadian contender. There was a Harvey’s restaurant on Cote-des-Neiges Road, across the four
busy lanes from the new brick mall where I went to buy LPs at Discus Records –
the first baby steps of what remains a life-long obsession. I’d go into Harvey’s with my loot and
order a hot dog, speaking English. The counter guy would yell over his
shoulder: ‘Un penis!’ The fellow manning the grill would shout: ‘Un penis!’ and
whap a wiener on the grill. They were literally back-to-back, two feet apart
from each other, volume at 11. These guys were years ahead of the Saturday
Night Live Cheeseburger skits and the Seinfeld Soup Nazi.
While back east last fall I tried
unsuccessfully to pinpoint the doorway of the long defunct location on Saint Catherine Street
that fed me while I was in university. These days it’s hard to find a Harvey’s. One might be
hidden away in a Home Depot. One might be free-standing in a big box outdoor
mall where we won’t go. The destination allure cannot overcome the
inconvenience of hunting down char-broiled perfection. This is why our lone
domestic chain is the half in our seven month, gut-busting, fast food burger
joint survey.
Ann and me tend to hit the one at Edmonton’s International
Airport before we pass
through the blue-gloved security. The garnishes are still neatly arrayed in
steel bowls although sometimes the tomatoes look a little too yellow. The
coffee’s not great but the lineups are shorter than Tim Hortons’. I would pay
extra to hear someone shout ‘Un penis!’ on the concourse.
Mickey D’s. The first time a friend
mentioned that to me I had no idea what he was talking about. God bless
McDonald’s, you can’t get much hipper than a gang argot handle. There is no way
to orchestrate or manipulate this type of street cred. Just run with it and
stick to your core expertise.
The first McDonald’s franchise I remember
in Montreal was
near the corner of Jean Talon and Decarie Boulevards, between Blue Bonnets race
track and the Orange Julep, facing me and my Mom’s A&W across the Decarie
expressway trench. It was a long and risky bike ride to get a taste of the
American Dream served up in a red cardboard cube. The AM radio advertising back
then was voiced by a veteran, long distance trucker with a Brooklyn
accent exhorting a newbie to simply Look
for the golden arches. These guys didn’t care a whit for in-store
playgrounds, limp salads or lattes. Alas, so many lifetimes later, the double
decker bread of a Big Mac sandwich still tastes like its container. And you
never can quite let go of all those saucy, special topping punchlines.
And what of the other well known burger chains?
I believe our allegiances, those secret, deal closing handshakes with brands,
authors, sports teams or music and film genres are done forever when we’re too
young to know better, curious and open without prejudice, unafraid of spiders.
Dairy Queen was always soft ice cream to me growing up; a grape Mister Misty to
go for my sister in the hospital and no meat on the brazier. I’ve noticed that
Wendy, like Aunt Jemima, Betty Crocker and the Export A cigarette girl has been
tarted up, Hot and Juicy. However
Dave Thomas and his square burgers came too late into my life to generate any
brand loyalty or affection. Wendy’s Singles, Doubles and Triples are decent
enough while other inferior assembly line burgers become time machines. A bit
of a life may be revisited with a single bite.